The Alfama

Start: Take a taxi to Largo do Salvador.

Finish: Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

Time: 2 hours, or more if you add sightseeing time.

Best Times: Any sunny day.

Worst Times: Twilight or after dark.

The streets of the Alfama are best traversed on foot; at times you must walk up steep stone stairs. Once aristocratic, this fabled section has fallen into decay. Parts of it allow the visitor a rare opportunity to wander back in time. Be aware that the Alfama can be dangerous at night.

A good point to begin your tour is:

Largo do Salvador

Here you'll see a 16th-century mansion that once belonged to the count of Arcos.

From here, turn down Rua da Regueira to:

Beco do Carneiro, the "cul-de-sac of rams"

This lane is impossibly narrow. Families live in houses that are, at most, just 1.2m (4 ft.) apart.

At the end of the alley, circle back using the flight of steps to your left to:

Largo de Santo Estevão

This square was named after the church on the site.

Round the church and, from the back, use the flight of steps to proceed to the:

Pátio das Flores

The Pátio das Flores has some of the most delightful little houses in the Alfama, adorned with characteristic Portuguese azulejos (tiles).

Walk down the steps to Rua dos Remédios, cutting right to:

Largo do Chafariz de Dentro

Here you might see housewives drawing water from a fountain -- many apartments don't have running water.

From the square, connect with:

Rua de São Pedro

This is perhaps the most animated street in the Alfama. As you stroll the streets, you'll probably attract a trail of boisterous children.

You'll pass some local taverns; venture inside to sample a glass of vinho verde (green wine). Stepping out onto the narrow street again, you might cross paths with an old fisherman with nets draped over his shoulder as he heads to the sea.

Rua de São Pedro leads into:

Largo de São Rafael

The Largo de São Rafael might convince you that the 17th century never ended. You pass a leitaria (dairy) that sells milk by the bottle; cows used to be kept right inside.

Off the square is:

Rua da Judiaria

Many Jews settled here after escaping the Inquisition in Spain.

Go back to Largo de São Rafael, crossing to rejoin Rua de São Pedro. Walk down the street to the intersection, forking left. You enter:

Largo de São Miguel

Take a moment to enjoy the richly baroque church on this square.

From here, walk up Rua de São Miguel, cutting left into:

Beco de Cardosa

Many fishermen and their varinas (fishwives) still live here. They often decorate their homes' wrought-iron balconies with flowers.

At the end of the alley, you connect with Beco Santa Helena, which leads up several flights of stairs to:

Largo das Portas do Sol

On this square is the Fundação Ricardo Espirito Santo, a museum of decorative art.

Take a Break -- At the Miradouro de Santa Luzia are several tiny cafes and bars with outside seating. Visitors from all over the world come here to order coffee and refreshments and take in the view of the shipping activity on the Tagus. These establishments are virtually all the same, but we recommend Cerca Moura, Largo das Portas do Sol 4 (tel. 21/887-48-59), which offers the finest menu of snacks and drinks in the area and affords a breathtaking view.

Continue south down Rua Limoeiro until you reach one of the Alfama's most fabled belvederes:

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

The belvedere overlooks the houses of the Alfama as they sweep down in a jumbled pile to the Tagus.